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Enigmatic Echidnas & Raising Hares

Monday, 1 June 2026
The wildlife is often a big part of the travel experience. This year I’ve had black tip and white tip reef sharks when I’ve been snorkelling and scuba diving at Christmas and Cocos Keeling Islands, plus a very nice manta ray encounter. Birds have been a big part of the wildlife story, particularly boobies and frigate birds on Christmas Island and an amazing assortment of birds including gannets and guillemots, each on their selected level, on the wild cliff faces of the Orkney Islands. Christmas Island’s crab population has been the year’s big story so far, even though my visit was not during the prime November crab migration season.
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Of course books on animal life also regularly pop up on my reading list, like Gisela Kaplan’s book Tawny Frogmouth, which I read after a pair of the owl-like birds moved in next door to me. They seemed to be keeping a close eye on me from a neighbour’s tree.
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▲ A Flinders Island echidna
The Enigmatic Echidna by Danielle Clode starts with the idea that you simply don’t see them frequently – they keep away from us. Nevertheless I have encountered echidnas quite often, I have regular echidna sightings noted in my diary and when I search my photos I find echidna images on King Island, Flinders Island and Kangaroo Island and no doubt there are others which I haven’t labelled.
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The book underlines how long it took us to learn much about them. Did they really lay eggs, the only other monotreme – egg laying mammal – is the platypus, but it took western scientists a long time to prove that fact. Of course they could have saved a century of research and an awful lot of dissected echidnas if they’d simply asked Aboriginals, but facts aren’t facts without Western proof?
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Today we know a lot more about them, they’re extremely strong, they positively hate being penned up – echidnas are escape artists – and they have surprisingly big brains. But what are those brains for, apart from eating more ants what do echidnas think about? There’s lots more to learn including their hibernation habits, which seem to vary from place to place and echidna to echidna. Not just deep sleep hibernation either, echidnas are also masters of falling into torpor, shorter term hibernation, not just as an energy saving practice, but sometimes out of sheer boredom. I don’t like this situation? I’ll just fall asleep until it’s over.
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My other wildlife book of the past year is Chloe Dalton’s wonderful Raising Hare. The author comes across an abandoned baby hare, a leveret, and reluctantly takes it in. I’m a terrible stop and go reader, some books take me months to get through, but this one I raced through. Assorted reviews proclaim how good it is and I’m in agreement, it’s a simply wonderful book. It’s educational and thought provoking as well as touching and, as with those enigmatic echidnas, you learn all sorts of things you never suspected about hares. Starting with the simple fact that they are not rabbits, despite a superficial visual similarity in many ways they are nothing like rabbits.
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Nor, the author solidly emphasises, was her rescued hare a pet. For starters she never gives it a name, but if you wanted a pet it would clearly be a nice one to have! For starters it is 100% tidy, it never had to be house-trained and when she later finds herself sheltering two more leverets, courtesy of her original hare, they don’t need to be house-trained either, Hare One looks after that. There is clearly real contact between hare and author, when it has its own leverets it brings them to her as if to show them off and parks them in the house having clearly said to them ‘she’s OK, she may be big, but you can trust her.’ And they do. Check this video of Chloe Dalton talking about her hare story.

Music in Cuba

28 April 2016 | Culture

If those old American cars are one of Cuba’s most iconic images then music has to be the other one. ▲ You can search it out, as we did at the rooftop bar of the Hotel Casa Granda in Santiago de Cuba. Grahame Greene came here in planning to interview Fidel in the 19...

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Havana Street Scenes

27 April 2016 | Places

Havana is a great city for people watching, whether they are Cubans or visitors. ▲ Lounging in Plaza de la Catedral beside the statue of flamenco dancer Antonio Gade lounging against a pillar. There are lots of statues like this one around Havana – variously loungi...

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Havana Architecture

26 April 2016 | Places

◄ There’s lots of it and you encounter it everywhere you walk. Like the Casa Particulares – a Cuban B&B, Airbnb without the internet – where I stayed on Calle Concordia in Central Havana, a few blocks back from the Malecón. My room has one of those balconies up to...

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Cuban Restaurants – still at the cutting edge

25 April 2016 | Living

On my 2014 visit to Havana I suggested that Cuba could be the world’s next hot restaurant destination. Two years later there are even more interesting places to dine although I found myself returning to familiar haunts: ▲ La Guarida – the ‘lair’ or ‘hideout’ – wa...

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Havana – the Distinctly Weird National School of Arts

25 April 2016 | Places

Wearing my Global Heritage Fund archaeology hat I visited a very modern archaeology site in Havana, the National School of Arts in Marianao. Here’s the rather flower power School of Fine Arts at the complex. ▼ Soon after the revolution Fidel and Che were out playing ...

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Those Fine Old Cuban Car

21 April 2016 | Transport

On my last trip to Cuba in 2014 I was delighted to note that the old American cars seemed to be looking better than ever. Many of them resplendent in pastel shades that never featured on the Detroit colour charts back in their era. ▲ Two years later there’s no chan...

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Hemingway’s Havana House – Finca la Vigia

20 April 2016 | Places

When I visited Cuba in 2014 Ernest Hemingway’s hideaway, Finca la Vigia, the Museo Hemingway wasn’t open. Somebody was making a film. ▲ Hemingway’s study It was certainly open this trip and this major Havana attraction was very popular. The house is a delight an...

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Internet in Cuba

19 April 2016 | Media

Internet connections are strange in Cuba, it’s one of the things that is going to change rapidly if Cuba really does open up after Obama’s visit. At the moment you’re not going to find Wi-Fi in your hotel room or in casa particulares – the Cuban B&Bs which are ...

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The Blockade & Cuba

18 April 2016 | Culture

After my 16 March Brunei posting I’ve been travelling a lot – London, Guatemala, Cuba, Panama, New York – and then back to Australia. So a bunch of rather late postings (and in no particular order) over the next week or two. Starting with Cuba, where I turned up soon ...

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Bandar Seri Begawan – a brief visit

16 March 2016 | Places

Maureen and I visited Bandar Seri Begawan – BSB to its friends – back in 1974 when we were working on the very first edition of Lonely Planet’s South-East Asia on a Shoestring. From Singapore we travelled across to North Borneo – the Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sa...

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