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Punta Ala in Tuscany, a 1933 flight to Chicago, Tobruk, Orkney Islands

Tuesday, 1 September 2026

◄  With a group of friends we rented Castello Punta Ala in Tuscany, perched on a hilltop overlooking the marina of Punta Ala and looking west to the island of Elba (briefly Napoleon’s prison island) and south-west to Montecristo Island. Corsica is further west. The castle was built as Torre di Troia Nuova in 1562-1563. It underwent assorted reconstructions and acquired other names before it was turned into a residence by Italo Balbo in 1932. Today it’s a confusing tangle of stairways, passages and even a tunnel under the road to a separate building with a billiard table and multiple chandeliers. Click here if you’d like to stay there.

 

 

◄  Italian Air Armada poster

Italo Balbo was Mussolini’s Minister of Aviation and is renowned for his long distance flying feats, in particular leading a formation of 24 Savoia-Marchetti S.55X twin-hulled flying boats across the Atlantic to Chicago for the World’s Fair known as the Century of Progress International Exposition. Taking off from Orbetello, 60km south of Punta Ala, the fleet flew 9700km across the Atlantic to Chicago:

Orbetello to Amsterdam 1400 km
Amsterdam to Londonderry (now Northern Ireland) 1000km
Londonderry to Reykjavik, Iceland 1500km
Reykjavik to Cartwright, Labrador, Canada 2400km
Cartwright to Shediac, New Brunswick, Canada 1200km
Shediac to Montreal, Quebec, Canada 800km
Montreal to Chicago, USA 1400km

On the long leg from Reykjavik to Cartwright they were prepared if necessary to divert to Julianehåb in the south of Greenland. Today that’s Qaqortoq and I visited there on my recent Greenland trip and then flew with Icelandair from Qaqortoq to Reykjavik.

◄ The 24 flying boats, usually they flew in groups of three

The arrival of Balbo’s 24 aircraft in Chicago was a major event, 60,000 spectators turned out to watch his ‘Italian Air Armada’ touch down on Lake Michigan.

7th Street was renamed Balbo Drive and if you follow the shore of Lake Michigan from the end of Balbo Drive you’ll come to the Balbo Monument in Burnham Park. The monument is a 2000-year-old Roman column brought from Ostia Antica, the ancient port of Rome. The inscription on the monument pedestal notes that it was a gift from ‘Fascist Italy’ so hardly surprisingly Balbo Drive and the Balbo Monument have attracted some controversy.

▲ If you want to see a Savoia-Marchetti flying boat the only one remaining is in Brazil, it was flown there in 1927. For some time it was displayed in the TAM Aviation Museum in São Carlos, 250km from São Paulo, then the museum was closed, then reopened and perhaps it’s in Itu in São Paulo now! Since 1923 a full scale reproduction of the historic aircraft has been on display at the Volandia Museum in Milan, Italy.

Italo Balbo came to an unfortunate end in 1940 during WW II. He was flying to the Italian base in Tobruk and his aircraft was mistaken as an attacking British aircraft and shot down by Italian anti-aircraft fire. If he’d survived that friendly fire incident he might have been captured by the British and, like other Italian prisoners-of-war from Tobruk, shipped off to the Orkney Islands, north of Scotland. When I visited the islands in April 2026 the Italian Chapel, the only surviving reminder of the prison camp, was a real highlight for me.

Punta Ala in Tuscany, a 1933 flight to Chicago, Tobruk, Orkney Islands

1 September 2026 | Living

◄  With a group of friends we rented Castello Punta Ala in Tuscany, perched on a hilltop overlooking the marina of Punta Ala and looking west to the island of Elba (briefly Napoleon’s prison island) and south-west to Montecristo Island. Corsica is further west. The ca...

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Travelling Britain with Celia Fiennes

5 August 2026 | Living

Writing a blurb line for Peter Fiennes’s book En Route (a literary trail around France) led me to his earlier book Footnotes (ditto for the British Isles) which introduced me to the remarkable Celia Fiennes. In the late 1600s, but particularly in 1698, this intrepid w...

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En Route & Footnotes – on the trail of Peter Fiennes

27 July 2026 | Media

I was sent a copy of Peter Fiennes wonderful literary exploration of France and asked to provide a quote: ‘The best books are always starting points, they inspire you to head out and read other books. En Route certainly did that for me, gave me a reading list of au...

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The Isles of Scilly – south-west of England

19 July 2026 | Places

I’d learnt that the Orkney Islands is the correct term for those north Scotland Islands and I soon learnt that it’s the Isles of Scilly – not the Scilly Islands or the Scillies. After a brief stop in Penzance our group – Maureen and me and seven friends – took the Sci...

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Michael Palin In Nigeria – and other recent books

16 July 2026 | Media

In Nigeria – Michael Palin visited Nigeria with a film crew to make a three-part TV series released in early 2024, so just before I was in Nigeria. And now – two years later? – there’s a rather brief, rather badly designed (in my view) and rather disappointing book on...

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Penzance

6 July 2026 | Places

I’ve certainly been hitting the islands this year – Christmas Island and Cocos Keeling, out in the Indian Ocean off Australia and Indonesia. Then a brief stop and a walk on Sharp Island in Hong Kong, on a stopover between Australia and the UK. A visit to the wonderful...

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Greenland – Part 2 – Paamiut & Qaqortoq

28 June 2026 | Places

In Part 1 of my Greenland travels I arrived in the capital Nuuk, it’s only a two hour flight from Iceland, and continued north across the Arctic Circle to Ilulissat, the iceberg tourist centre of Greenland. Then I returned to Nuuk and continued south to Qaqortoq, the ...

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Greenland – Part 1 – Nuuk & Ilulissat

24 June 2026 | Places

▲ Yes dozy Don, also known as Taco Trump, the shambolic President of the USA does have bad intentions for Greenland. I posted a blog in January about why it might be a good idea to visit Greenland now, before the US invades. In June I finally got there and visited fou...

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Enigmatic Echidnas & Raising Hares

1 June 2026 | Media

The wildlife is often a big part of the travel experience. This year I’ve had black tip and white tip reef sharks when I’ve been snorkelling and scuba diving at Christmas and Cocos Keeling Islands, plus a very nice manta ray encounter. Birds have been a big part of ...

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Piraeus – more than meets the eye

28 May 2026 | Places

▲ Approaching Athens Airport over Lemos – with my Greek Islands travel companion Nick Varian I’d flown into Athens and took a taxi to Piraeus ▲ Ferry activity in the port of Piraeus from the Hotel Mitsis N'U It’s the port for Athens and for most visitors that’s ...

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