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En Route & Footnotes – on the trail of Peter Fiennes
Monday, 27 July 2026
I was sent a copy of Peter Fiennes wonderful literary exploration of France and asked to provide a quote:
‘The best books are always starting points, they inspire you to head out and read other books. En Route certainly did that for me, gave me a reading list of authors I’m ashamed not to already be familiar with. But hey, this is also a travel book, so I’ve also added a bucket list of new places to visit.’ Tony Wheeler, the co-founder of Lonely Planet

In En Route ‘Fiennes drinks with Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir in the bars of Rouen and Le Havre, follows Edith Wharton’s Motor-Flight along the Loire Valley to the home of George Sand, and explores the beaches of the south with Colette and Katherine Mansfield. He lingers in Bordeaux with François Mauriac, canvasses the foothills of the Alps with John Berger and follows Colette to the trenches at Verdun, before finally heading to Paris, where he consigns Guy de Maupassant to an asylum and Sartre to his grave.’
His travels certainly gave me lots of ideas for exploration and certainly left me ashamed of the yawning gaps on my reading list. I’ve now got a major Maupassant collection to investigate and I have already read Katherine Mansfield’s The Garden Party & Other Stories.
En Route led me to Peter Fiennes’ earlier book Footnotes, which follows a similar literary exploration of Britain. Chapter 1 looked at Dorset from the perspective of Enid Blyton, a perfect beginning since I was heading to Sherborne in Dorset for Rory Maclean’s annual travel writing weekend. But was Enid Blyton – beloved by so many children and detested by so many critics – the BBC in particular – really so awful? Well she did overuse ‘lovely,’ everything was likely to be ‘lovely’ in an Enid Blyton book. Plus one of her daughters was not at all sure that mummy was so lovely.
My particular Footnotes find was the extraordinary Celia Fiennes. I’ve already been travelling in her footsteps – well her horse’s footsteps since she explored England riding side saddle in the late 1600s. I’ll be blogging about her soon.