Latest Posts:

Enigmatic Echidnas & Raising Hares

Monday, 1 June 2026
The wildlife is often a big part of the travel experience. This year I’ve had black tip and white tip reef sharks when I’ve been snorkelling and scuba diving at Christmas and Cocos Keeling Islands, plus a very nice manta ray encounter. Birds have been a big part of the wildlife story, particularly boobies and frigate birds on Christmas Island and an amazing assortment of birds including gannets and guillemots, each on their selected level, on the wild cliff faces of the Orkney Islands. Christmas Island’s crab population has been the year’s big story so far, even though my visit was not during the prime November crab migration season.
.
Of course books on animal life also regularly pop up on my reading list, like Gisela Kaplan’s book Tawny Frogmouth, which I read after a pair of the owl-like birds moved in next door to me. They seemed to be keeping a close eye on me from a neighbour’s tree.
.
▲ A Flinders Island echidna
The Enigmatic Echidna by Danielle Clode starts with the idea that you simply don’t see them frequently – they keep away from us. Nevertheless I have encountered echidnas quite often, I have regular echidna sightings noted in my diary and when I search my photos I find echidna images on King Island, Flinders Island and Kangaroo Island and no doubt there are others which I haven’t labelled.
.
The book underlines how long it took us to learn much about them. Did they really lay eggs, the only other monotreme – egg laying mammal – is the platypus, but it took western scientists a long time to prove that fact. Of course they could have saved a century of research and an awful lot of dissected echidnas if they’d simply asked Aboriginals, but facts aren’t facts without Western proof?
.
Today we know a lot more about them, they’re extremely strong, they positively hate being penned up – echidnas are escape artists – and they have surprisingly big brains. But what are those brains for, apart from eating more ants what do echidnas think about? There’s lots more to learn including their hibernation habits, which seem to vary from place to place and echidna to echidna. Not just deep sleep hibernation either, echidnas are also masters of falling into torpor, shorter term hibernation, not just as an energy saving practice, but sometimes out of sheer boredom. I don’t like this situation? I’ll just fall asleep until it’s over.
.
My other wildlife book of the past year is Chloe Dalton’s wonderful Raising Hare. The author comes across an abandoned baby hare, a leveret, and reluctantly takes it in. I’m a terrible stop and go reader, some books take me months to get through, but this one I raced through. Assorted reviews proclaim how good it is and I’m in agreement, it’s a simply wonderful book. It’s educational and thought provoking as well as touching and, as with those enigmatic echidnas, you learn all sorts of things you never suspected about hares. Starting with the simple fact that they are not rabbits, despite a superficial visual similarity in many ways they are nothing like rabbits.
.
Nor, the author solidly emphasises, was her rescued hare a pet. For starters she never gives it a name, but if you wanted a pet it would clearly be a nice one to have! For starters it is 100% tidy, it never had to be house-trained and when she later finds herself sheltering two more leverets, courtesy of her original hare, they don’t need to be house-trained either, Hare One looks after that. There is clearly real contact between hare and author, when it has its own leverets it brings them to her as if to show them off and parks them in the house having clearly said to them ‘she’s OK, she may be big, but you can trust her.’ And they do. Check this video of Chloe Dalton talking about her hare story.

Trans-Mongolian Train Trip – Kazan & on to Moscow.

27 July 2013 | Places

We’re well into European Russia at Kazan, we’ve travelled around 7000km from Beijing and have just 820km to go. Kazan is our last long stop before Moscow and it’s a very long one, morning arrival, evening departure and the next day we rolled into Moscow before 12 no...

View Post

Mörön to Mörön

26 July 2013 | Culture

I won’t try to improve on their publisher’s (Allen & Unwin’s) blurb: Uncrossable rivers! Hospitable nomads! Rabid dogs! Marijuana fields! Hailstone flashfloods! Maidens on horseback! Underpants wrestling! Toxic mountain-top lakes! Stupid westerners! And the mounta...

View Post

Trans-Mongolia Train Trip – Yekaterinburg

25 July 2013 | Places

After another long day’s train travel we’re now over 6000km from Beijing and this is our last day in Asia. As we depart Yekaterinburg we’re crossing the Urals and pass a lake and then a tunnel which officially marks the transition from Asian Russia into European Rus...

View Post

Trans-Mongolian Train Trip – Novosibirsk

24 July 2013 | Places

4672km from Beijing ▲ On the long stretch (1842km) from Irkutsk to Novosibirsk there was plenty of time to gaze out the window and watch Siberian forest pass by. For much of that distance across Siberia there’s appear to be nothing to the north of the railway lin...

View Post

Trans-Mongolian Train Trip – Lake Baikal to Irkutsk

23 July 2013 | Places

2830km from Beijing We departed our Lake Baikal barbecue late in the evening and foolishly joined some other party goers for a last drink in one of the restaurant cars. The night went on rather too long before Maureen and I lurched back to our compartment. Since ...

View Post

Trans-Mongolian Train Trip – Lake Baikal Sidetrip

22 July 2013 | Places

In between Ulan Ude, our first stop in Russia, and Irkutsk, where we would abandon the train for a night, we made a sidetrip on the Circum-Baikal line. It feels like a misnomer, the 160km diversion, turning off the main Trans-Siberian line at Slyudyanka, doesn’t go ‘a...

View Post

Trans-Mongolian Train Trip – Ulaanbaatar to Ulan Ude

21 July 2013 | Places

654km from Ulaanbaatar to Ulan Ude, 2215km from Beijing We departed Ulaanbaatar at night and around dawn we rolled up at Suchbataar on the Mongolian side of the border. We’d been told how to handle things here, leave your passport and arrival forms on the table i...

View Post

Trans-Mongolian Train Trip – Beijing to Ulaanbaatar

20 July 2013 | Places

1561 km from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar We’ve just finished the Trans-Mongolia train trip from Beijing to Moscow. We didn’t take the regular straight through train trip nor did we get off and on at various places along the way. We did it easy on the chartered Zar...

View Post

The Trans-Mongolian Train Trip

18 July 2013 | Transport

It’s been on my wish list for too many years, but I’ve finally done the big Russian train trip. In fact there are three big Russian train trips, all of them ending in Moscow. We took the Trans-Mongolian which kicks off in Beijing, heads north through Mongolia and meet...

View Post

Detroit – a place to be on its last days?

4 July 2013 | Media

I’ve just read Mark Binelli’s superb book about the decline and fall – and perhaps rebirth – of Detroit. Mark has written for Rolling Stone and indeed this reads like a Rolling Stone page turner, a tale of alternate shock and awe. There’s a great line about using Detr...

View Post